In the world of wine, a revolution is brewing, and it's led by an army of incredible women. The male-dominated wine industry is finally opening up to female sommeliers, and their impact is nothing short of inspiring.
Pascaline Lepeltier, a renowned wine advisor at Chambers restaurant in New York, shared her journey with AFP. She recalled how, at the beginning of her career, a certain demographic of male clients didn't trust her expertise or even asked to see the 'real' sommelier. Paz Levinson, who oversees wine at Anne-Sophie Pic's renowned eateries in France, had similar experiences.
But here's where it gets controversial: both women, now veterans in their field, believe the landscape has become more welcoming for female sommeliers. Pascaline, at 44, says gender balance has evolved, though it's not yet perfect. She remains the only woman to have earned the title of Best Sommelier of France and placed fourth in the World's Best Sommelier competition in 2023.
And this is the part most people miss: despite these achievements, women still make up less than 10% of candidates at the World's Best Sommelier competition. It's a stark reminder of the gender gap in the industry, where men dominate gastronomic awards and top positions.
However, there have been breakthroughs. Canadian Veronique Rivest, Danish Nina Jensen, and Frenchwoman Julie Dupouy have all made it to the top ranks, with Rivest finishing second in 2013 and Jensen as runner-up in 2019 and 2023. Yet, no woman has claimed the ultimate title, which will be awarded in Lisbon next October.
Paz Levinson remains hopeful: "We still have the top spot to claim as the world's best sommeliers. We're keeping a lot of hope."
The 1970s and 1980s saw a few pioneering female sommeliers, but the real shift happened about 20 years ago, according to Fabrice Sommier, president of the French Sommeliers Union (UDSF). Today, women make up nearly half of those in training in France, and a new generation of female sommeliers is rising, thanks to societal changes breaking down gender barriers.
Agnese Morandi, a 28-year-old Italian sommelier at the two-star Table in Paris, trained with Paz Levinson. She credits Levinson with opening her mind to non-alcoholic pairings, a field she hadn't explored with her male supervisors. "I've always behaved as if being a man or a woman didn't matter. It's passion that brings us together," she says.
But do gender differences influence how men and women perform the role of a sommelier? Alexandre Lesieur, a teacher at the elite catering school Ecole de Paris des Métiers de la Table (EPMT), believes so. He claims women venture into more niche regions and suggest gentler pairings. However, Pauline Monclus, one of his apprentices, disagrees. She believes everyone, regardless of gender, has their unique personality and approach.
Pascaline Lepeltier, who placed fourth in the World's Best Sommelier competition two years ago, is aiming higher for next year. "Equality isn't here yet, and there are still unacceptable behaviors. But we're also much more supported and surrounded today than 20 years ago," she concludes optimistically.
So, what do you think? Is the wine industry finally ready to embrace female sommeliers as equals? Or is there still a long way to go? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
